Day 6- the good, the bad, and the ugly

That's so. Even a tramp like me, no matter what happens, I know there's always a brother who won't refuse me a bowl of soup. – Tuco from the movie The Good the Bad, and the Ugly

          The Perfect Spot - Window over the Plaza

There is so many good things about being in La Spezia that it will be difficult to limit myself.  La Spezia, or for that matter Italy in total, is not a utopia. There is bad, and even ugly.  After a lunchtime chat with a co-worker I decided to go out and be a field reporter.  To confirm or discredit my initial impressions and what I have found on this trip as well as past sojourns  - Children are the best indicator.

the good…

In my travels I have always found the best way to get a real feel of the place is go into a grocery store, a park, or a shopping area.  Once there listen carefully.  A measurement of quality of life is directly related to crying children.  I am not talking about the quantity of material things or money.  Quality of life, like love, cannot be measured or defined, only perceived. 

Near the hotel there is a small square.  In the evening around 5 pm the plaza is a buzz.  There are old people on benches telling stories of the past.  Parents scattered around the outside of the square under umbrellas sipping glasses of wine, while young
lovers seek a doorway for a kiss.  These casts of onlookers are entertained by boys and girls having pick-up soccer games, while razor scooters weave in and out, and every physical object is being climbed or has become a platform for a pending feat of bravery. What is absent?  No screams… I want, or fits of anger because he took my toy, or the holler mine, mine!  And only rarely I have seen a collision, a tumble, or feat bravery that went awry which demanded parental intervention to wipe a tear.  A kiss on the forehead or a wipe to remove the dirt off a dress and the symphony of play begins again. And when plaza time comes to end you will hear the parent call the child’s name make eye contact and start walking down the street.  The child runs to catch up and the family walks home.

Some may dispute my observations or say it is the same in the United States.  To compare or contrast these events witnessed everyday in the plaza in La Spezia, I would challenge one to go to any mall on a Saturday afternoon about 3pm and sit next to the playground with the one you love for a two hours of relaxation.  Look to see how many 65 plus folks are sitting inside the play area calmly chatting and kicking a stray ball to join in.  And of course listen! What do you hear? 

the bad…

The language barrier has been a little tough.  Yep that is my problem I am in Italy and I could have learned Italian before my visit.  There are many nations, nationalities, and languages in the European Union.  Since the establishment of the EU, the use of a common language for communication seems to be more prevalent.  I have been the benefactor because English seemed to be that language. 

Not so much in La Spezia.  English spoken or written is a rare and it is has been my impression that the Italians have little interest in communicating in any other language than Italian.  Usually if one makes the effort to greet, say please and thank you, and work a little trying to use words your host will help.  I have not found that the case here.  So in some respects, Italians are the closest people I have found that compare to folks in US - language snobs.  The Netherlands, Greece, Spain, and to a lesser extent Germany will at least invest some effort.  Of course this is not a blanket statement there are exceptions, but they are exceptions.

The single language syndrome includes road signs, menus, and directions.  All of those things can be overcome, but some come with hard lessons along the way.  For example:  Me getting a fine for not validating my train ticket; My co-working getting a 40 Euro parking ticket because he was in a spot as best as we could tell had no sign. Evidently that was not the case and the color of the parking lines meant something. (Still not sure on that one) 

The menus are not hard to understand in Italian because many of the words we recognize, and as best as I can tell there is no bad food here.  Minimum risk associated with ordering off a menu blind.

the ugly…

I tread lightly here since I used to be one…

I am not sure there are any non-smokers in Italy.  Smoking is everywhere and cannot be escaped.  The weather has been so nice that I have wanted to sit outside and enjoy the cuisine.  Last night, I sat down next to a table of 6 and all 6 were smoking.  During the 90 minutes for meal service, I do not remember a minute when tobacco was not burning.  From young to old a cloud forms over any group larger than 4.  If you truly disdain smoke you may have a long visit.

So that is my good, bad, and ugly.  La Spezia appears to be a place where most folks enjoy family, friends, and food.  My barometer, albeit very un-scientific, is how the multiple generations gather, their contentment, and the happiness of their children.  

They do have attitudes and my bet is you will experience it.  Along those lines, ironically, I have never been anywhere that more flags are displayed then the US.  I always thought that honor of most flag decals on the planet went to USA USA USA.  I think we are in second!

And finally if they would just stop smoking when food served…  But at last that would be me whining.

I promise to limit the social commentary in the future, but I will be curious to get your impressions when you visit.

Ciao

Postscript:  As many of you know I like to take pictures of Faces (Faces of the World).  I asked this young mother if I could take her picture.  She agreed.  As I was taking the picture a woman came up and attacked me.  The mother explained in Italian that I asked and it was ok.  The attacker said (my guess) this is an Italian Plaza – No photos of Bambinos – Not a Ingley Plaza – Go!  The BAD had been confirmed… The young mother shrugged her shoulders and I retreated to the threats of Mussolini’s last guard. 

BTW – I had wonderful dinner – UPSCALE – Multiple courses with freshly made Pesto and Pasta, Lamb from Argentina, and Barbera d’ Alba…  Yep life is good-but the UGLY was also reconfirmed.