Day 11 – Lets’ go see Chris!

“By prevailing over all obstacles and distractions, one may unfailingly arrive at his chosen goal or destination” - Christopher Columbus

Window of the Day 

No Glass but pretty Impressive!

Well I missed a couple days, because we have been on the move!  Catch Up Time!

After an auspicious start on Saturday in Pisa we were ready for fun and adventure!  Easter Sunday arrived with rain drops on the window and the bells were ringing.  We went to early services and then it was off to Genoa by train.  This beautiful seaport was about an hour away on the fast train, or 2 hours on the local train.  Time/Cost decision was made and time won.

 

Genoa was the home Christopher Columbus.  The morning remained cloudy, but only wet streets greeted our arrival.   Of course we expected that

many things would be closed on Easter Sunday, but to our amazement following Mass - Most of the church doors were closed and locked on this special day in Christianity.  In all my trips to Europe this is the first time I have ever seen church doors locked.  We did find a few open, but the major Cathedral was not open.  Even the lion that stands watch at the entry looked puzzled. 

We walked through the historic district and down Via Garibaldi where the movers and shakers of days gone by lived.  Just amazing homes!  Every few blocks you would enter another Piazza.   From simple to magnificent – each had their own personality, but rest assured in every one of these squares there would be a couple locked in an embrace.

Enough words Enjoy the Pictures:  A Day in Genoa 

Day 10 – The Arrival

I'm lucky, I can sleep from takeoff until we land; so I'm fresh, rested and ready to work on arrival - Eva Herzigova

I have confirmed the tower does lean 

Well my wife and friends arrived safe and sound after the long night flight across the pond.  Transfer went well in Paris, and after a short delay to change one of the wheels on the airplane they arrived in Pisa just a few minutes late.  Since I had a few extra minutes I walked from the Pisa Train Station to famous leaning tower.  Then I caught a taxi back to the airport so I would be there when they arrived. 

Another good thing about Italy… You can kiss and hug and nobody screams get a room!  Three weary travelers were ready to start their vacation.  Since I had been up to the tower already, I warned them it was a zoo.  This being a holiday weekend, with all the folks in town for the John Paul’s big day - Pisa was crowded (DC on the 4^th of July crowded).  So I recommended, and it was accepted by the group, that we just grab a cab see the tower and then ride back train station.  Everything worked as planned and we arrived back at train station in time to catch the next La Spezia train with  just few minutes of dead time.  Life is good!????  No it wasn’t - life turned bad.

It was on the platform when my friend reached for his wallet... it was gone.  Yep when we got out of the cab we both noticed lots what I would term as: “gypsies”.  We do not know for sure, but the Italian police were pretty sure, that the wallet disappeared between the taxi stand the train station.  That is about a 50 yard walk.  The police told us there were problems with small children who are very good and taking wallets.  My friend did remember two young girls following him.  We do not know what happened, but since the police seemed concerned I pass that warning along those who follow us. 

One hint: I would recommended if you are traveling with your sweetie or a friend, make sure that your credit cards have different numbers.  Hence you can cancel one and continue on with your vacation.  Kudos to the Italian police for being helpful, the staff at My One here in La Spezia that worked with the taxi company in Pisa.  And it appears the credit card company will be express delivering a new card.

Tomorrow is Easter and we plan to go to Genoa and participate in their Easter Festival.

Everybody has gone to bed to try to catch two nights of sleep in one...  So I close - Happy Easter to All!

And Special Happy Birthday Kiss for Mom. 

Ciao

Day 9 – Anticipation!

tomorrow, tomorrow, tomorrow, your'e always a day away… Annie

Janet is Coming Tomorrow!

Today is Good Friday and things are little quieter than normal, but the business of the day continues.  It also means my sweetie and friends will be arriving in less than 24 hours.  The decision of the afternoon was what can I do to make the day pass by quicker.  The answer was right above me! 

La Spezia is very hilly (which is a major understatement) and I had failed to look up at what looms above me.  There is a castle and it has an amazing collection of antiquities.  This 15^th century castle sits one of the highest points in La Spezia and commands awesome views of the harbor.

 

But as I continued to look up, I knew that meant lots of steps to conquer.   A shoe change would be a must, and then I saw the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow in the gates to an incline.  Staying at the My One hotel you get into the habit of exiting out the back via the elevator into the heart of the city.  Walk out the front door on Level 5 this historic citadel is literally 20 yards away and a short incline ride.

The museum itself holds treasures that date back to the 4^th millennium BC to the glory days of Roman Empire.  An entry fee is 5.50 Euros per adult for the museum, but I think one can go to the top for the view for free.  I want to head back to the top for some sunset pictures in the near future.

I leave you with a few pictures to take in the beauty of the view.

Emmett this one is for you

Yes that is a yacht -Jet Black and really sweet 

Scott & Larry - your restaurant recommendation was great.  The antipasta was amazing - all 7 of them!  I enjoyed 4 courses of food that just blew me away - thanks for the recommendation. I will pass on the business card along with the phone.   

Maybe I should walk to Pisa tomorrow.

Ciao

P.S.  Oh yeah!  Did I tell you Janet is on her way…



Day 8 - A me day

And after 7 8 days he rested… - I read that somewhere

Your dryer is just outside the window

  

Today was a me day.  Hence the blog will be very short. 

The laundry went well – 30 minutes for the wash cycle and 37 minutes for dry and the directions  are in English.  With chores done and my clothes clean, I just walked the streets taking it all in.

I bumped into a confused couple who spoke English and needed directions.  They were headed my way so I escorted them to their destination, a grocery store.  My favorite Enoteca was across the street so why not have a glass of wine.  As couple exited the store they joined me for wine and antipasti.  That is when I discovered he owns a vineyard and winery in Australia that produces 40,000 cases a year.  We enjoyed the wines of Liguria and swaped stories.  This type of encounter is so much fun for me.  New friends, wine, and food.

For dinner I headed down the alleys, and I found a place that looked good.  I was seated next to couple who wanted talk politics.  How much fun is that?  For me it is a bunch! 

On a scale from 1-10 the meal was a 9 , the wine a 14, and the dessert a 12.  Man these folks know how to eat!

Ciao

Day 7 – 365 What!

I once tried standing up on my toes to see far out in the distance, but I found that I could see much farther by climbing to a high place. - Xun Zi

Window of the Day - Lemons and Sun

Well the work day came to an end and after a few administrative things that needed my attention, I was ready for an adventure.  Off to the train station and for about 4 Euros for a round trip ticket, I was headed to Corniglia.  It is one of the 5 towns of Cinque Terre, and the only one that cannot be reached by boat.  Hence the train, but before I departed the hotel I queried the front desk what I thought was a simple question.  “Is there a long walk from the train station to town or does it go right into Corniglia?”, I asked.  It goes right to the town was the response and it was correct.  Albeit it was 365 steps straight up!

Before we do that climb let me take a second and expand on the train. 

The train ride is very short, less than 30 minutes, with stops in Riomaggiore and Manarola.  What is amazing about the ride is that 90% of it is through the mountains.  No daylight.  Just one long tunnel!  When you reach Corniglia and step off the train, Manarola glows in the distance bathed in the setting sun.

To my surprise... Ahh at last a sign in English!  Yes I am going to walk the steps, not take the 1.50 Euro bus.  10 yards to left of the sign I found the steps for my advertised 15 minute walk, and I began to climb.

After about 50 steps I realized that this is not the path mentioned on the sign.  The light came on when I met a local man shaking his head.  I turned 180 degrees and back down where I had begun to begin my search of the RIGHT steps.

So I followed the path and found the 365 steps and up I went, a little bit slower than the boy in front of me, but remembr I had already had done 50 steps!  That is my story and I am sticking to it!

Once you reached the last flight of steps you are greeted by a statue of Our Lady of “Hot Damn I Made It”, the patron saint of fools who walk. She welcomes you to the village of Corniglia, while an old man sits on a bench spending his day getting enjoyment from watching the tourist sweat after their ascent.  Check that off the 1000 places to see!

With your goal achieved, I think you will find the small town of Corniglia a little on touristy side - but hey that is what we are.  Wandering small alley streets, one can catch some great sea views, lush flowers, and stone work that is very impressive. 

Following my tradition of remembering my father and uncle, and now I have added Bain, I light a candle wherever I go in their memory.  In this small fishing chapel may this light burn through this Holy season of Easter.

I am now in my 33^rd year of marriage, and if you told my wife that the picture below was my dinner she would probably call you a liar.  I will tell everyone when you visit Italy (or Greece) eat a tomato.  We in the states had to pass a law to classify a tomato as a vegetable not a fruit.  I am going with a fruit!  They are RED, not Food Lion orange, and have zero acidity.  AMAZING! 

I could not leave this town without splurging and having a glass of Sciacchetrà, that golden nectar of bliss.  Corniglia is in the center of the area where this dessert wine is made.  I was in search of the best, but could not find anyone that would sell it by the glass.  The regular stuff, which is offered, sells for 35-40 Euros for a 350ml bottle.  The good stuff pushes the 100 Euro mark.  You cannot buy this in the US and believe me it is worth a try.  A glass will run you 5 Euros and will come with a small plate of sweet bread to accompany this honey. You will never say again – “I do not like sweet wine”.

So that was my evening!  Tomorrow will be laundry day, and I know each of you will be waiting on the edge of your seat waiting on drying times… 

Oh yeah!  Today we also solved a mystery!  If a parking space is painted with yellow lines only public vehicles (police, bus, public works etc…) can park.  Blue lines are private spots that belong to someone – no parking unless you are that someone. The blue spots can also be paid parking if you can find the toll box. 

White lines are fair game for everybody!  

We were also told there are no white lines in La Spezia.

The only thing bad about this day was this was not me sitting with my sweetie...  Just a few more days!

Ciao

Day 6- the good, the bad, and the ugly

That's so. Even a tramp like me, no matter what happens, I know there's always a brother who won't refuse me a bowl of soup. – Tuco from the movie The Good the Bad, and the Ugly

          The Perfect Spot - Window over the Plaza

There is so many good things about being in La Spezia that it will be difficult to limit myself.  La Spezia, or for that matter Italy in total, is not a utopia. There is bad, and even ugly.  After a lunchtime chat with a co-worker I decided to go out and be a field reporter.  To confirm or discredit my initial impressions and what I have found on this trip as well as past sojourns  - Children are the best indicator.

the good…

In my travels I have always found the best way to get a real feel of the place is go into a grocery store, a park, or a shopping area.  Once there listen carefully.  A measurement of quality of life is directly related to crying children.  I am not talking about the quantity of material things or money.  Quality of life, like love, cannot be measured or defined, only perceived. 

Near the hotel there is a small square.  In the evening around 5 pm the plaza is a buzz.  There are old people on benches telling stories of the past.  Parents scattered around the outside of the square under umbrellas sipping glasses of wine, while young
lovers seek a doorway for a kiss.  These casts of onlookers are entertained by boys and girls having pick-up soccer games, while razor scooters weave in and out, and every physical object is being climbed or has become a platform for a pending feat of bravery. What is absent?  No screams… I want, or fits of anger because he took my toy, or the holler mine, mine!  And only rarely I have seen a collision, a tumble, or feat bravery that went awry which demanded parental intervention to wipe a tear.  A kiss on the forehead or a wipe to remove the dirt off a dress and the symphony of play begins again. And when plaza time comes to end you will hear the parent call the child’s name make eye contact and start walking down the street.  The child runs to catch up and the family walks home.

Some may dispute my observations or say it is the same in the United States.  To compare or contrast these events witnessed everyday in the plaza in La Spezia, I would challenge one to go to any mall on a Saturday afternoon about 3pm and sit next to the playground with the one you love for a two hours of relaxation.  Look to see how many 65 plus folks are sitting inside the play area calmly chatting and kicking a stray ball to join in.  And of course listen! What do you hear? 

the bad…

The language barrier has been a little tough.  Yep that is my problem I am in Italy and I could have learned Italian before my visit.  There are many nations, nationalities, and languages in the European Union.  Since the establishment of the EU, the use of a common language for communication seems to be more prevalent.  I have been the benefactor because English seemed to be that language. 

Not so much in La Spezia.  English spoken or written is a rare and it is has been my impression that the Italians have little interest in communicating in any other language than Italian.  Usually if one makes the effort to greet, say please and thank you, and work a little trying to use words your host will help.  I have not found that the case here.  So in some respects, Italians are the closest people I have found that compare to folks in US - language snobs.  The Netherlands, Greece, Spain, and to a lesser extent Germany will at least invest some effort.  Of course this is not a blanket statement there are exceptions, but they are exceptions.

The single language syndrome includes road signs, menus, and directions.  All of those things can be overcome, but some come with hard lessons along the way.  For example:  Me getting a fine for not validating my train ticket; My co-working getting a 40 Euro parking ticket because he was in a spot as best as we could tell had no sign. Evidently that was not the case and the color of the parking lines meant something. (Still not sure on that one) 

The menus are not hard to understand in Italian because many of the words we recognize, and as best as I can tell there is no bad food here.  Minimum risk associated with ordering off a menu blind.

the ugly…

I tread lightly here since I used to be one…

I am not sure there are any non-smokers in Italy.  Smoking is everywhere and cannot be escaped.  The weather has been so nice that I have wanted to sit outside and enjoy the cuisine.  Last night, I sat down next to a table of 6 and all 6 were smoking.  During the 90 minutes for meal service, I do not remember a minute when tobacco was not burning.  From young to old a cloud forms over any group larger than 4.  If you truly disdain smoke you may have a long visit.

So that is my good, bad, and ugly.  La Spezia appears to be a place where most folks enjoy family, friends, and food.  My barometer, albeit very un-scientific, is how the multiple generations gather, their contentment, and the happiness of their children.  

They do have attitudes and my bet is you will experience it.  Along those lines, ironically, I have never been anywhere that more flags are displayed then the US.  I always thought that honor of most flag decals on the planet went to USA USA USA.  I think we are in second!

And finally if they would just stop smoking when food served…  But at last that would be me whining.

I promise to limit the social commentary in the future, but I will be curious to get your impressions when you visit.

Ciao

Postscript:  As many of you know I like to take pictures of Faces (Faces of the World).  I asked this young mother if I could take her picture.  She agreed.  As I was taking the picture a woman came up and attacked me.  The mother explained in Italian that I asked and it was ok.  The attacker said (my guess) this is an Italian Plaza – No photos of Bambinos – Not a Ingley Plaza – Go!  The BAD had been confirmed… The young mother shrugged her shoulders and I retreated to the threats of Mussolini’s last guard. 

BTW – I had wonderful dinner – UPSCALE – Multiple courses with freshly made Pesto and Pasta, Lamb from Argentina, and Barbera d’ Alba…  Yep life is good-but the UGLY was also reconfirmed.

Day 5 - A day in the life

Woke up, fell out of bed,

Dragged a comb across my head

Found my way downstairs and drank a cup,

And looking up I noticed I was late.

Found my coat and grabbed my hat

Made the bus in seconds flat – Lennon & McCartney

Window of  the day - Warm Sunshine

The sun sneaked into my room via a small slit in the curtains as my Blackberry began to wail the sounds of Santana’s electric strings - Samba Pa Ti.  The music provides a much sweeter sound than a clock with a ringing alarm.  Before I could reach the off button, the church bells joined in with their forceful bongs creating a cacophony of new and old.

The first thing I always do after silencing the alarm is to check for email from home.  A little blinking amber light when on travel provides the only link to home, and is always anticipated.  Unfortunately, this morning the light was a harbinger of bad news.  A very close family friend had left this world while I slept.  Go with God Bain – Semper Fidelis, and I extend my prayers and thoughts to Charlotte and family for the love you two have given and for someone that meant so much to Janet and I – his presence will always be with us.

Monday - Off to work I went.  I missed the L bus, but no worries the S followed shortly behind.  I was not sure which stop to get off, so I jumped off at the Penny Market, and had to walk over the overpass which is under construction.  It is the only part of the entire walk that really stinks, but when I crossed over I saw a sign saying the L Bus stops on the other side.  Tomorrow I will make sure I get on the L Bus and will be ringing the bell on the bridge to get off.  To give my co-workers a heads up – I caught the 7:24 bus and walked from the bus stop to the plant arriving at 7:55.  I arrived 35 minutes early, but I had built in a lot of cushion to be safe - it was the first trip solo.

Today I am going to spend time on the hotel. If you endure the write up there is a slide show at the end.  The  My One Hotel as a place is very good!  The rooms are clean and the hotel is well located, but nothing fancy.  The pictures are worth a 1000 words. 

Bedroom

Work Area and Closet

The bathroom

The bathroom is very narrow, but has everything you need - maybe more, but it is definitely just a one person kinda of place.

Oh yeah... nothing works unless the key is plugged in.  The damn EU saving power!  You leave everything turns off!

The views are definitely not romantic and marginal at best.  But remember... location, location, location

The breakfast, which is included, is filling and I think will meet the needs of the most any picky eater.  No picture but there is fruit, chicken babies (eggs), ham, assorted breads, bacteria (aka yogurt) and bunch of cerals.  I must admit Italian butter is kinda weird.  BTW Richard you are right - Italian Breads suck!

Getting to work - The bus stop we need to use is a very short walk, and to be honest can be very enjoyable in the morning.  Once you get off the bus and have to finish the journey to work – not so much. But that part it is very short.

After work for those who like to run or power walk, there is a park with great trails that parallels the waterfront.  It is also a wonderful place just to stroll and take in the beauty.

I have been asked to locate a laundry, and I have been successful!  It is a very short walk from the hotel.  The laundry mat is brand new and very clean.  The cost is 4 Euros per load to wash and 4 Euros for a 37 minute commercial dryer.  Self Service - Life is good!

If I was to give a hit  to Hotel One it would be the internet.  The wireless service is iffy at best, but the nice lady just told me I can direct connect in the room - more on that later.

I will not cover my dinner, but once again it was amazing!  Three course of pure bliss.  All very small portions and all full of flavor.  The highlight were raw fresh fava beans.  Open the pods and enjoy.  AMAZING!

You have made it through the details now for the fun stuff!  I took some time and tried to capture our Saturday excursion to Cinque Terre in pictures and comments…

Follow the link:  A day exploring Cinque Terre

Ciao

BTW - Comments welcomed - Just like email :)

Day 4 - The Bells are calling

We are tied to the ocean. And when we go back to the sea, whether it is to sail or to watch - we are going back from whence we came.  

- John F. Kennedy

Mark this day - I quoted JFK...

Window of the day - Spring is Here

I awoke this morning to the sounds of church bells.  My plan was to head to Parma, but the ringing sound kept saying Palm Sunday.  So Mass it was, and what a treat!  The Cardinal of Liguria said the Mass in the old Cathedral – Pretty Special!

With no way to make it to Parma and back with anytime to enjoy the city, I opted to go to the beach.  The sun was very warm, but a light sweater is still required early morning and once again late afternoon.  Lerici and San Terenzo was my destination.  Just like going to work, one can catch the L or S bus.  The L ends in Lerici, but the S bus goes on to the next town. I jumped off in San Terenzo (the stop before Lerici) and slowly walked to Lerici. 

I paused to sit on the beach or the rocks along the way.   I was amazed how many folks were in the water.  However most were just soaking up the sun.

Once in Lerici, I walked to the castle, but was confronted with a choice.  Enter a tunnel which is cool and runs under the mountain, or climb a bunch of steps to a castle that was not open.  Hmmmmm…. Yep the tunnel was the correct answer. 

After walking in the cool subterranean passage, I popped out in a secluded cove.  And to my surprise there was a restaurant built into the side of the mountain.   I heard the lunch bell ringing in my stomach.   A very good decision!

After lunch I explored Lerici and wandered down back alleys.  The town square is a little touristy, but enjoyable.  It is definitely a place all should donate an afternoon to visit.

I returned to La Spezia on the bus, which I would call the ride from hell.  However riding the bus is easy and cheap, and no one should be concerned about jumping on the public transportation.

Here is my day in pictures - click on the link to see more shots of the day

My day in pictures 

I think the images will be better.

So my bald forehead is sunburned and it is time to turn in...

Ciao

Day 3 - Paradise Found

Everything has beauty, but not everyone sees it. - Confucius

              Window of the day - It is Saturday - Wash Day!

Today was a blur!  Up early, I went to breakfast only to find thousands of young people.  (Ok I exaggerate size – but there was a bunch) Some New Hampshire college has blessed us with their students which arrived late yesterday.  The buffet table had been stripped by ravenous 19 year old males, but that was ok because all I wanted was coffee.  I had just picked up my cup when a young giggly girl said,  “this is my first cup of coffee!” and then proceed to smash the pot of coffee as she slammed back on the burner. 

Runaway!!!!!!

So I jumped on the P bus (P stands for Portovenere) with a goal of doing Cinque Terre.  The bus system is a very easy way to get around and for almost nothing you can go from point A to Paradise.  Portovenere is about a 30 minute ride for 1.90 Euro.  This town is a must and do not worry about missing your stop.  The driver turns off the engine and gets off the bus – I recommend you do the same.

I met up with my coworker in Portovenere after enjoying my long awaited cup of Cappuccino and some wonderful sweet bread.  He had caught the ferry from Lerici where he is staying, and our search for paradise was ready to begin. 

We explored this small sea side town Portovenere, while we waited for our next ferry that would take us to Village One of Cinque Terre.

The Cinque Terre, are five small villages on the "Costa Ligure of Levante". The villages from south to north are: Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso al Mare.  

We started in Riomaggiore and walked to Manarola.  The ferry does not stop in Corniglia and a recent landslide has closed the trail between Corniglia and Vernazza.  So we caught the ferry to Monterosso bypassing the stop at Vernazza. You just cannot do not the 5 of them in one day. If I was to do it again I would catch the train from La Spezia to Monterosso and then work back on the ferry.  What a day!

We enjoyed lunch in Manarola.  I had a stuffed Pesto Ravioli with gorgonzola cheese, followed by grilled calamari and both were enjoyed with local wine. 

All in all it was a day of fresh air, beautiful sights and great food!  One of my favorite expressions when I travel to the Caribbean has always been… “this is not paradise but I think you can see It from here”.  Today - I may have arrived.

And today we have a trivia question! 

Which of the following do not belong?

If you answered the lemons – you are wrong!

When I got back to La Spezia after a day of walking and fresh air, I went to see my new friend, Dominico at the enoteca, and once again the food and wine appeared from nowhere. 

I leave you tonight with a picture that I think says it all - Good Night